Monday, December 27, 2010

The Only Nice Ice




That's right - the ice that's found indoors is the only nice ice. And in the fantastic village of Bruges, it's an annual tradition to show off dozens of ice sculptures all under a single roof, at a toasty temperature of about 20 degrees. What the sculptures lack in size (they are no more than about 20 feet tall) they more than make up for in artistic skill and variety. This year's theme was "Around the World." Here are quick views of England, Russia, and the U.S.

Friday, December 24, 2010

No Need to Dream: It's a White Christmas!













Snow is one thing there is no shortage of this December! It looks like records are being broken, even as we speak. It's beautiful to look at and certainly in keeping with the season. But the roads... A true Nightmare Before Christmas. And during. And after...

Thursday, December 23, 2010

To Those We Miss and Love





To our friends, so far away, we wish you all a very Merry Christmas and hope that your Holidays are filled with love, peace, and serenity.
For our family, seemingly even farther away, we wish you .... were here. But we also wish you great times with the "extended family" and hope that you will take away nothing but loving memories from your Holidays. We miss you all so very much but know how excited you all must be to visit each other again, after such a long time.

Saturday, December 18, 2010

Subterranean Christmas



Nearly every city and town in this part of Europe has a Christmas market, so it's obviously a good idea to have some sort of niche or trademark or oddity to set your town's apart. That's just what Valkenburg has. This cute little town in the extreme southeast corner of Holland, only minutes from both Belgium as well as Germany, has long held its Christmas market in an odd location: underground.
Some of the caves this town is famous for date back to Roman times and in summer the tours of the catacombs are very popular. But nothing matches the draw of a holiday market held entirely in caverns.
Now, no one will confuse these caverns with Luray or Carlsbad, but it still is interesting to wander among the stalls about 100 feet under the ground. They sell everything from traditional creche sets to tree decorations to more unusual things, such as African art. And, of course, awaiting all shoppers as they return to ground level are the ubiquitous sausages and marvelous mulled wine!

This is SO Not Cool!



Alright, this is not funny! Who's got my summer and warm weather? Have you seen it anywhere? Who's taken my summer? I'm not leaving here until someone fesses up! Please.

Thursday, December 16, 2010

Maybe That's Why Stores Are Now Open on Sundays...

It wasn't all that long ago that almost no stores were open anywhere in Europe on Sundays. Now that has all changed. No, it's not like the U.S. where everything is open, but it's moving in that direction.
Why? Well, here is one possible explanation: a recent poll in northern Belgium showed that a whopping 5% of the residents go to church regularly on Sundays. What are the other 95% supposed to do all day? Ah, they are learning American ways over here...sadly.

As Beautiful As Everyone Says...










The tour books all said that Florence was special, that it was
the "capital" of the Renaissance, that it was an artistic jewel,
that the architecture was memorable, that the sights were
unique, that the food was to die for.
And guess what - they were right on all counts!

Monday, December 6, 2010

Dangerous Fields of Flanders

The last bombs of World War I fell in Flanders, in western Belgium, 92 years ago. But they're far from forgotten. Police in the tiny village of Westhoek responded to 3,000 calls in 2009 - over 8 each day - from residents who had uncovered ordnance from the Great War. Over 200 tons of unexploded bombs, shells, mortars, grenades, and even gas canisters were disposed of. This certainly seems like a huge amount, until you realize that about 720 million shells and mortars were fired on the western front in the four-year war. It is estimated that as much as a quarter of all of these never exploded. In the district of Ypres, scene of the most famous trench warfare, nearly 600 people have died since 1918 as a result of still-deadly ammunition; the most recent, only 2 years ago. In northern France they have similar experiences: just last month an entire village had to be evacuated for a week when someone stumbled onto a huge German munitions depot, where 30 tons of shells were removed in what around here is often called the "Iron Harvest." Now there's something you don't see in the States...

Saturday, December 4, 2010

Siena...But Not Burnt



Ever wonder where the name of that weird brown Crayola "burnt sienna" comes from? Well, as a kid, I did. And now, here's the answer: from the fantastic Italian renaissance town of Siena. Where the 2nd "n" comes from in the crayon will have to remain a mystery for other scholars. In any case, this town lived up to all its hype and then some - it is truly a jewel in Tuscany. Smaller and not as loaded with art treasures as Florence (the post from there will be coming in a couple of days), Siena manages to maintain that 15th/16th century flavor better than her rival to the north. The view from our hotel room, for example, was of a block of houses at least 350 years old, towered over by a side view of the massive cathedral, or Duomo. There was only a handful of tourists here, making it even nicer. Evidently you do not want to be here in mid-August, with the overpowering heat and crowds. As for food: nothing short of spectacular. For dinner we had a boar stew with spinach cooked in olive oil. I tried the famed local wine, Chianti, and found it a bit powerful. One glass was more than enough. For lunch the next day, before catching the bus north to Florence, it was pizza. Like almost all pizza in Italy (and in most of Europe for that matter), thin and crispy is the rule. Not much tomato sauce and no huge gobs of cheese. It's about as far from Pizza Hut's deep dish as you can get. Fine by us!

Thursday, December 2, 2010

Tongue Twister? Or Phenomenal Art?!?


Many, many years ago, when I was a camper at Kennolyn Camp in the redwoods of California, we were taught a tongue twister revolving around a single word: Piccolomini. The game was to say the word over and over, as fast as you could, to a tune which put stresses at different places. We were told this was used by disc jockeys to hone their on-air skills. Little did I know that such a guy actually existed.
Actually, it was a family of very wealthy folks in Tuscan Siena; two went on to become popes.
More importantly, a local painter was asked to celebrate the life of Pope Pius II who was, you guessed it, a Piccolomini.
And celebrate he did! This unbelievable "library" is in a small chapel in the Siena Duomo, with frescoes well over 500 years old. That's 500 years. What was going on in the U.S. back 500 years ago? Gives one pause, as they say.
This may be the most remarkable church art in the world, in a cathedral that arguably is the match of St. Peter's in Rome.
All in a little town, off the beaten path, with about 10 tourists on its streets (we represented 20% of that total)...

Monday, November 29, 2010

More Than Just a Crooked Tower




Just a 90-minute flight gets us to Pisa, gateway to Tuscany. We spent an afternoon here last week, before heading south to Siena. This is definitely the time to visit this area - you can count the number of tourists on two hands, prices are extremely reasonable, and you don't have to wait to enter any of the main sights or museums. And, seemingly as always, we had the luck of the weather gods yet again. The forecast was for 3 days of rain. What did we get? Three days of sun and marvelous clouds, as you'll see from every stop on this trip. What did we have for lunch? What else - pizza in Pisa!

Sunday, November 14, 2010

Better Watch Out, Noah!

They say that all records are meant to be broken and, if I were Noah (of the Ark fame), right about now I might be starting to get a bit nervous. It started raining here in central Belgium on the evening of the 5th and has not stopped since. Oh sure, there have been pauses, but by and large it's been 7 straight days of the wet stuff - I'm guessing we've had something like 18 or 20 inches total. And today it's just more of the same. The cats are getting fed up, threatening to do nothing but sleep all day if this weather doesn't improve so they can go out. Oops - too late.

Saturday, November 6, 2010

Another Painful Farewell

This time it was Feline Friend of the Family Lily, who at 18+ years finally came to the end of her 9 lives with us. She made it about a year longer than her sister Abby and, in human years, had to be pushing 90. Never the world's friendliest cat, she still was a beloved part of the family, howling and all.
One of our very favorite family moments came all those years ago in Maryland, when kitten Lily and her sister spent about 30 minutes thoroughly destroying a roll of toilet paper in a hallway, all recorded on video for posterity. But her time had clearly come and so we had to sadly say goodbye yesterday. Now she can howl to her heart's content, knowing that her sister, who must be nearby, is so deaf that she won't mind a bit. Goodbye, Lily - we sure do miss you already.

Wednesday, November 3, 2010

Color Us Happy!


I've been waiting exactly one lifetime for this moment. It's true: the last time the Giants won the World Series was the year I was born. And, to be as honest as only a lifetime fan could be, back in April if you had asked, I absolutely, positively would not have said that this was our year. But I guess Venus must have been in the house of Mars, or something like that.
But to be totally honest, I won't miss the alarm clock going off nearly every night for the past two weeks at times ranging from 12:30 to 2:15 AM. You wake up at 1, then head back to bed at 4:30 for all of an hour more sleep. It's like self-inflicted jet lag, for about 14 straight days.
Lack of sleep? A pain in the butt. The Giants as the World champs? Priceless!

Sunday, October 31, 2010

Hopefully This Isn't the Source of the Cheese's Smell...

The small Belgian city of Limburg now can boast of having the Best Flemish Graveyard, announced recently at the annual Funeral Awards. You've got to be good at something: we in the U.S. have Emmys, Pulitzer Prizes, and Oscars. Here, they've got Best Boneyard.
It was evidently a hot contest between Limburg and two other cities in northern Belgium. I'm sure they were all dying to win. Sorry; it was there; I had to use it.
Nearly all cemeteries here are stand-alones, not affiliated or collocated with any particular church, so funerals are always held elsewhere. So, just what then are the criteria for this coveted award, you ask? Awards are given in the categories of services (you dig a hole, you fill it - this one seems like a no-brainer), suppliers (of what? Dirt? Shovels?), quality of website (you haven't lived until you've checked out a cemetery site), and - I'm not making this up - best idea for the disposal of crematory ash.
What I've been wondering about is just who they get to MC this annual gala event?

Monday, October 25, 2010

An Unpaid Political Commentary

This doesn't have a darned thing to do with Belgium, but having lived within a stone's throw of the Berlin Wall for over 6 years, I humbly submit the following for your consideration:
About the only people I could ever envision lauding the border policies of the former East Germany would be 1) members of now-defunct eastern European politburos, or 2) anyone else who has never gotten around to reading a single book on 20th century European history. Enter Joe Miller, Tea Party Senate candidate from Alaska (the state that has already given us the Republican's version of Albert Einstein...).
Candidate Miller was certainly never a politburo member and, as a graduate of the U.S. Military Academy, he most hopefully cracked open the cover of at least one history book during his four years of study. But I might be wrong.
He draws comparisons between the current border problems in the southwestern U.S. and those same nagging "problems" which tormented the East German regime 50 years ago. He states that East Germany was "very able to reduce the flow. If East Germany could, we could." The tiny, insignificant distinction between the two circumstances seems missing in his argument: foreigners hopping across our borders in search of a better life; in East Germany, its citizen-prisoners trying to escape tyranny to reach a better life, often killed in their attempts.
Say what you will about the policies of Democrats, but in this wild year of politics I have yet to hear one discuss the merits of a "2nd Amendment solution" to politicians who simply espouse views different from your own, or praise one of the most heinous dictatorships in post-World War II Europe for its effective border policing.
Assuming that Mr. Miller has in fact read a history book at some point in his adult life, it must have been published by the same company that provided Sarah Palin her book on world geography.

Sunday, October 24, 2010

First Trip to Athens





As is so often the case, the weather gods (Sunnyos and Almostas Cloudlos) were on my side during a business trip to Athens this week. Once the daily work ended around 5, I put on walking shoes and hit the uneven, rocky streets, to see the sights. On Friday I covered about 6 miles in 3 hours but, as you can see, it was well worth it.
It was interesting to see that the city's stray dogs all have collars and are totally well-mannered, never approaching you, begging for food, etc. Better than humans in some cities.
The food was very good, although I'd advise the Greeks to pay a visit to Belgium see how French fries are supposed to be prepared. Apparently wanting to live up to the name "Greece," in Athens the cooks plop the fries into semi-hot oil for a minute or two, then throw them directly onto your plate, still swimming in grease and oil. If you could somehow wring them out before eating, it might be fine. But I think there's no comparison between fries in Greece and nearly everywhere else on the planet. I think they'd be better off sticking to souvlaki and Ouzo.

Love Those Letters, or, Zeta - It's Not Just for Catherine Jones Any More...

Just returned from a great week-long business trip to Athens, where several of us noted that all the license plates there use letters common to any language throughout most of Europe, as opposed to using any Greek-only letters. My guess is that this is probably based on some European Union law (it there's one thing the EU is good for, it's creating new laws...covering everything), aimed at making policing easier in countries north of Greece. But can you imagine if this weren't the case, and that Greek cars could have plates with letters like Psi, Rho, and Sigma? Picture a radio call from a cruiser to his station, reporting on a speeding Greek car:
"I have the vehicle in sight. Here is the license number: 529 . And the letters that follow are...er...um...well, OK, the first one is sort of like three sticks sideways, with the top and bottom ones wider than the middle one, then there's a big vertical line with the little zero stuck in the middle of it, and the final one is a long, bending stick, held up by another, smaller one, below it and to the left."
Suffice it to say, by this time the perp has had plenty of time to get lost in traffic, safely headed back to the driving chaos that is Greece.

Monday, October 11, 2010

120 Days and Counting

"Functioning government? We don't need no stinkin' functioning government!"
- possible quote by nearly all Belgian politicians.

Yup, that's politics, a la Belge. They held national elections here 4 months ago and some party or another won. Not that it matters. As if things aren't complicated enough in this tiny country, you have two separate sets of parties, one set in the north speaking Dutch, and the other in the south speaking French. This doubles the possibilities when it comes to procrastinating, name calling, wasting money, and generally letting a nation go to hell in a hand bag.
So, 4 months later, there is still no functioning government in Brussels. Rather poor timing, considering that Belgium presently holds the 6-month, rotating European Union presidency. When they took over in early July, the Belgians claimed to want to pursue an "ambitious program." Right now, just agreeing on who the heck the prime minister is might be ambitious enough.
Who is actually running the country? A "caretaker" administration, primarily made up of members of the previous administration. Kinda takes the sting out of losing an election if you know that, say for the better part of a year, you don't have to move out of your office and take up a real job. Good work if you can find it.

Thursday, September 30, 2010

We're Not the Only Crazy Ones

It seems that Belgium is learning the American legal system...sadly.
A family living just outside Bruges, 80 miles NW of here, was ordered by a local court to remove a tree house they had constructed for their 5 and 6 year-olds. A neighbor had complained that the "house" (actually, a mere platform less than 4 feet off the ground) represented an invasion of privacy, allowing the kids to look into their windows. Just what was going on in the house that you wouldn't want a little kid to see was evidently not brought out in court. Nor was the logic behind the complaint, whereby the neighbors claimed that the kids were always crying and screaming in their own yard. I guess when they did this on their tiny platform it somehow amplified the sounds, allowing them to pierce the walls of the neighboring house and provide visual images back to the kids of terrible things going on in that neighboring house.
Following in the tried-and-true American tradition, the judge sided with the complainant, threatening to fine the offenders about $150 per day until the platform was removed.
It's nice to know we're not the only legally crazy folks in the world.

Why is This Man Screaming?


Because he lives in Oslo!
You think your city is expensive? No way - I don't care where you live.
This place is expensive, the most expensive place I've ever seen in Europe.
Need proof? A postcard = $1 . Using the bathroom in the train station: $1.75 . A small pizza perhaps big enough for 2, if you've just had a 3-course meal somewhere else: $30 . A good-sized beer: $11.50 . Can I stop now?
Sure it's a pretty place, but who on earth can afford to find out, unless you're here on business.
In any case, it gives me the rare opportunity to get artsy with the camera. To take this picture: $45. No, I'm joking.

Nice Business Trip, Eh?



Lots of trips and not too much else interesting lately. But I did get to spend over a week recently in Ottawa and found myself with all of about 5 free hours in a week. Fortunately, the weather gods were cooperative. It's a nice little capital - it reminds me of Bonn, when it was capital of Germany. Almost seems too small, but that is probably better.

Saturday, August 28, 2010

Village of Variety




In the States, my experience has generally been that in any city or town you'll have the ritzy sections, and the more run-down, or much older sections. Near our house in Maryland the trend is to cut down all the trees and build rows of McMansions, all ridiculously priced. But a mile or two away it's a much less affluent feel. There, like most places in the U.S., the two are usually separated and one can easily tell which area one is in. Not so here in Waterloo. It's amazing to me how the "neighborhood" changes, almost from house to house. Our town is considered very up-scale by Belgian standards. As such, there are plenty of small mansions and other gorgeous homes. But, within a minute's walk you also find a very different sort of house. They are mixed together here and, within no more than 150 yds., you can go from mini-mansion to cute-and-quaint to Yikes! See for yourself.

Resting in Peace













Resting on a beautiful bluff (at least today it's beautiful) above D-Day's Omaha Beach is probably the most famous American cemetery in Europe, located at Colleville-sur-mer. This is the one highlighted in Saving Private Ryan. Nearly 10,000 are buried here, many obviously from the first days of the invasion in June 1944. Like all the other U.S. cemeteries we've visited in Europe, this one is immaculately clean, well kept up, and serene. As it should be. Perhaps most touching for me and Lucie during our recent visit was seeing the number of non-U.S. visitors. I'd guess that no more than 10% of the 500 or so visitors we encountered there were from the States.

Wednesday, August 25, 2010

66 Years and Counting...











That's how long these German guns have been silent, on the cliffs above Omaha Beach in Normandy. It's amazing the condition that some are still in. The cement emplacements are no doubt indestructible; there is no way nature can get rid of these. The guns themselves do rust and some have rusted into oblivion. But some live on.
It's totally peaceful here now, with plenty of sun and color and tourists. Even with a vivid imagination, it's hard to close your eyes, go back in time to June 1944, think about all those horrible black-and-white photos we've all seen, then open your eyes and believe you are standing at that very location. Pretty amazing...

Sunday, August 22, 2010

Fun With Language

I was recently chatting about parenthood with a German buddy and asked what the German word or phrase for "the birds and the bees" was. I figured it was either a phrase like "the wild boars and the honeysuckle of spring by a clear brook," or a single word of about 30 letters (the Germans, unlike the French, just love long words). As it turns out, I was wrong on both counts: it is a single word, and one of only 10 letters. The word is "Aufklaerung." (The "ae" is actually an umlauted a - you know, the a with the two dots over it).
But what is far more interesting than the word itself are its 3 primary definitions:
1) military reconnaissance
2) the Enlightenment (as in, European history)
3) the birds and the bees.
Try as I may, I just can't find a very solid nexus between even two of these, let alone all three. Have fun coming up with your own!

Friday, August 20, 2010

Not Your Holiday Inn


Nope - you won't find any such hotels in this off-the-beaten-path part of Normandy. Instead, we stayed at a 300+ year old B&B known as the "Farm of the Cats" (Ferme aux Chats, in French). Boasting all of 4 rooms (each named for a breed of house cat) but with managers with hearts the size of lions, this place was a marvelous find. The breakfasts included a half-dozen home-made jams and preserves and in the evening you could count on tea, a library full of books and magazines about D-Day, and the more-than-potent local booze, known as Calvados. Supposedly, it's made from apples, but at about 90 proof, I'd swear it's made from aviation fuel. They also had 6 cats (hence the name), geese, ducks, and even an eerie pet cemetery (complete with ancient-looking headstones). Should you make it to this neck of the woods, look for Fermigny on the map, only 3 miles from the famous U.S. D-Day cemetery.

Thursday, August 19, 2010

Big Sur...a la France











These are the cliffs of Etretat, on the English Channel, only about 50 miles across the sea from the more-famous-but-less-spectacular White Cliffs of Dover. This is probably the most stunning piece of shore scenery in all of northern Europe. The winds were well over 40 MPH and it alternated between sun and rain almost every 10 minutes. It's a healthy hike to the top but the view is...well, you be the judge. By the way, there are no rails, ropes, or fences here. Not for the faint of heart, nor for the ambulance chasers.

Friday, August 13, 2010

Return of the Flowers!



























Once again, it's the Flower Carpet on the Grand Place in
downtown Brussels. For just 3 days, 600,000 begonias
do their best to enthrall the crowds (most of whom, it
seems, just flew in from Tokyo). By the end of Sunday,
they will already be on their last legs (flowers and probably also tourists) and the show will
be over once more, until August 2012.
This is sight like no other and, once again, the weather
gods have been very kind. You might want to compare
these photos with the ones I posted back in Feb 2009.